Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
